Nalu: History, Legends, and Wisdom from 1,000 Years of Hawaiian Surfing

A visually stunning and culturally rich exploration of surfing, the oldest sport in North America and an integral part of Hawaiian society that dates back more than 1,000 years. Modern surfing culture has existed for only about 100 years. Even the word "surfing" was a Western invention created in the 1800s by early visitors to Hawaiʻi, who had no idea how to describe the sight of Hawaiians riding waves. Little did those Westerners know that Hawaiians already had a name for it: heʻe nalu, or wave-sliding. For ancient Hawaiians, this indigenous pastime was more than just a sport or recreation; it was a vital aspect of their society. Heʻe nalu had its own rituals, holidays, shrines, and mythology. When the waves were right, entire villages would abandon their duties to play in the ocean. Men, women, and children would all dive in—riding, competing, flirting, and socializing in the water. Kings and queens claimed the best waves for themselves.